Mount Kenya, with its towering rock faces and breathtaking landscapes, is one of the most coveted destinations in Africa. It is here that Max Coda, a Great Escapes ambassador, and Andrea Lanfri decided to make their dream a reality: to open a new route. In an exclusive interview, Max shares the adventure, the challenges, and the emotions that accompanied this incredible feat.
The idea of a new route
The idea of opening a new route on Mount Kenya, as Max explains, came from one of many conversations with his climbing partner, Andrea. "We had fantasized more than once about opening a new route in the mountains," Max explains. It became a reality when Andrea proposed they explore Mount Kenya. Both had already "tasted" the rock on that mountain two years prior, and Andrea's idea of returning immediately excited Max.
Physical and mental preparation
An undertaking of this magnitude requires rigorous preparation. Max followed an intense training plan: "I dedicated all my free weekends to long mountain hikes, trying to gain as much altitude as possible while training with a loaded backpack to simulate real conditions." He also supplemented this with gym workouts to improve endurance, which is essential when spending most of the time above 4,800 meters. The altitude and demanding trekking posed challenges that only meticulous preparation could meet.
The decision
Planning was a crucial phase. Using old photos and updated maps, Max and Andrea identified a rocky spur to the right of the standard Nelion route. However, once they reached the base of the wall, they realized how dangerous the area was: "There were huge boulders, resting on nothing, ready to fall down." So, the two climbers wisely decided to move to the east side, where they found a new line to ascend.
The route they chose was about 300 meters from the standard route and included three rope pitches of 25-30 meters, climbed with fast protections like friends and nuts. The difficulty of the wall did not exceed grade III+, allowing them to progress safely until they reached the ridge and continued with protected simultaneous climbing. "However, here came the tough decision not to attempt the summit," Max tells us, "the weather forecast called for rain and snow in the early afternoon, so we decided to return."
The challenges and emotions
Every mountain expedition comes with its difficulties, and for Max, the challenge was heightened by a fever that followed him through most of the expedition. Sleepless nights and constant headaches tested his endurance, but nothing could stop his determination. "Fortunately, we had half a pharmacy with us," jokes Max, emphasizing how vital preparation is in such situations.
Despite the difficulties, the emotions experienced along the way surpassed every obstacle. "The feeling of being the first to touch those rocks is indescribable," Max shares. Each movement was a new experience, a journey into the unknown requiring attention and precision: "Every single movement is a journey; you test the holds, look for the best cracks to place protections, and you double-check where you put your feet—or at least one of them," he jokes again.
One of the most significant moments was when they engraved the name of the newly opened route on the rock: "1LEG42," a playful combination symbolizing the special bond between Max and Andrea. This moment crowned their feat, representing not only the completion of the climb but also an indelible mark of their adventure.
A new approach to the mountains
For Max, this expedition represents a new chapter in his climbing career. "Today, I approach this sport with a different outlook," he reflects. After overcoming personal and physical obstacles, the mountains have taken on new meaning for him. "I have objective limitations that slow me down, but I still look at the positive side of things, I enjoy the scenery more," he says, smiling, recalling the words of a friend: "The pain passes, but the satisfaction lasts forever."
Determination and passion
Max Coda's feat on Mount Kenya is not just a testament to determination and passion. Thanks to his tenacity and preparation, Max has shown that no limits cannot be overcome, especially when chasing one's dreams. For those who love mountain adventures, Great Escapes offers the perfect technical clothing to face even the most challenging journeys because, as Max teaches us, the pain passes, but the satisfaction lasts forever.
Photo credits @ilariacariellophotography
